Samsung Galaxy Note20 Ultra Screen Replacement

Power off your phone completely before starting disassembly.

• Apply a preheated iOpener to the left side of the rear cover for one minute.
• Alternatively, use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate, but be cautious not to overheat the device, as it can cause damage to the screen and internal battery.

Apply a suction cup to the heated edge of the rear cover, as close to the edge as possible.

• If your back glass is badly cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape for better suction.
• Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the rear cover and the frame.

Do not insert an opening pick more than 5 mm into the phone to avoid damaging internal components.

• If necessary, apply more heat to the edge and try again, especially for older phones.
• As a last resort, superglue the suction cup to the broken panel if it fails to adhere.

Insert the opening pick into the top right corner of the device.

• Slide the pick along the right edge towards the top right corner, applying gentle pressure as needed.
• Continue sliding the pick along the edge until it reaches the bottom left corner.

Leave the pick inserted in the bottom left corner to prevent re-sealing of adhesive.

Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm into the phone.

• Heat and cut adhesive along three remaining sides of rear cover.
• Insert new opening picks between existing ones in corner gaps.

Leave an opening pick in each corner to prevent re-sealing.

• Slide an opening pick around perimeter to release missed adhesive.
• Reheat stubborn adhesive as needed.

Remove the rear cover by lifting it straight up.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector.

• Pry only under the edge of the connector to avoid damaging the socket.
• To re-attach, align carefully and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side.

• Do not press in the middle as this may bend the pins, causing permanent damage.

Locate the white press connector at the bottom right of the motherboard shield.

• Pry up the press connector using the pointed end of a spudger.
• Once disconnected, proceed with further repair steps.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 4.0 mm screws securing the motherboard shield.

• If necessary, be prepared for these screws to be difficult to remove due to threadlocker on their threads.
• Keep track of each removed screw and ensure it is replaced in its original location.

Hold the motherboard shield by gripping it with your fingers.

Caution: Its edges are thin and sharp, handle carefully.

Remove the wireless charging coil by gently peeling it up and away from the device.

Note: The wireless charging coil may be secured with light adhesive, which can be easily removed during removal.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the battery press connector.

Risk of short circuit if not done carefully.

Remove the screws holding the loudspeaker in place using a Phillips screwdriver.

• The loudspeaker is secured with 5 x 4.0 mm screws.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger into the hole marked by a triangle on the left side of the loudspeaker.

• Use the spudger to pry up and loosen the left side of the loudspeaker.

Insert spudger into hole marked with triangle on right side of loudspeaker.

• Pry up loudspeaker from frame using spudger.
• Clips along the bottom edge of the loudspeaker are securing it to the frame.

Use tweezers to carefully lift and remove the loudspeaker.

Disconnect the display cable from the motherboard using the pointed end of a spudger.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the touch layer cable connector

• Gently pry it away from the motherboard.

Damaging internal components can occur if opening picks are inserted too far.

• Weaken and cut through the perimeter adhesive with a tool or your fingernail.
• Be cautious of additional adhesive near the front-facing camera and fingerprint sensor.

Apply a heated iOpener to the top of the screen for two minutes.

• The iOpener will remain warm for up to 10 minutes.
• Reheat the iOpener only when necessary.

Use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate with caution: avoid overheating the phone and potential damage to the screen and internal battery.

Apply a suction cup to the heated top edge of the screen, as close to the edge as possible.

• If your screen is badly cracked, cover it with clear packing tape for better adhesion.
• Pull up on the suction cup with steady force to create a gap between the screen and frame.

Depending on phone age, this may be difficult; apply more heat if needed and try again.

• Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap at a steep angle.
• Pull the opening pick down to level with the screen, ensuring it slides over the front-facing camera.

Leave the opening pick in place to prevent adhesive re-sealing.

• Insert a second opening pick into the gap.
• Slide it to the top left corner of the screen to cut the adhesive.
• Leave the opening pick in place at the top left corner to prevent re-sealing.

Insert a third opening pick into the initial gap.

• Slide the pick towards the top right corner to cut the adhesive.
• Leave the pick in place at the top right corner, preventing re-sealing of the adhesive.

Insert the center opening pick deeper into the phone to separate the earpiece speaker and front-facing camera from the screen.

Be careful not to push the pick too far under the screen, as it may be difficult to retrieve.

• Remove the center opening pick.

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for exactly 2 minutes.

Insert a second opening pick into the gap at the top right corner of the screen.

• Slide this opening pick downwards to the bottom right corner, cutting through the adhesive.
• Leave the opening pick in place at the bottom right corner to prevent re-sealing of the adhesive.

Insert a pick at the top right corner.

• Slide it to the center of the right side.
• Leave it under the right edge to prevent re-adhesion.

Heat a iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

Insert an additional opening pick into the top left corner gap.

• Slide it down to the bottom left corner, cutting through the adhesive.
• Leave this pick in place at the bottom left corner to prevent re-adhesion.

Insert a credit card or plastic spudger into the top left corner gap.

• Slide it towards the center of the left side.
• Position the tool under the center of the left edge of the screen, holding it in place to prevent re-adhesion.
• The screen should now be separated from the frame. If not, use a pick to cut the adhesive again.

Hold the phone with the right edge facing up.

• Apply a few drops of high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol between the screen and frame, near the fingerprint sensor.
• Insert the isopropyl alcohol applicator at the top of the adhesive area to avoid damaging the fingerprint sensor.

Do not insert the applicator too far or it may damage internal components.

Tilt the phone so the alcohol flows towards the adhesive.

Wait two minutes for the adhesive to weaken.

Do not attempt to remove the screen completely at this stage.

• Hold the top half of the frame and guide the touch layer cable through its cutout.
• Lift the screen by its top half, keeping it angled no more than 30 degrees above the frame.

If the screen does not come off easily, consider applying more isopropyl alcohol to the inner adhesive or cutting through additional perimeter adhesive.

Thread the display cable through its cutout in the .

• Remember to thread both cables through their cutouts during reassembly.
• The display cable and touch layer cable are specific cables that need this step.

Remove the screen.

• Scrape off any leftover adhesive before installing a new screen.

• Carefully wipe or let air dry any remaining alcohol solution.

• Test your repairs before applying new adhesives.
• For custom-cut adhesives, follow the provided guide for application instructions.
• For pre-cut adhesive cards, refer to this separate guide.