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Google Pixel 4a Charging Port Replacement

The display panel is fragile and may break easily; proceed with caution when handling it.

  • This guide was written by iFixit staff, not affiliated or endorsed by Google.
  • Learn more about our repair guides on the iFixit website.
  • To replace the charging port on a Pixel 4a, follow this procedure carefully.

Step 1 | Eject the SIM card tray

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Insert the SIM eject tool, bitter or a straightened paper clip into the SIM tray hole.

  • Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.
  • Remove the SIM card tray.

Step 2 | Precautionary notes

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Familiarize yourself with the phone's seams and cables before proceeding.

  • Identify the screen seam, where you'll pry the screen loose.
  • Avoid the frame seam, held by screws, to prevent damage.

Be cautious when approaching:

  • The screen flex cable: Avoid inserting the opening pick too deeply, risking damage.
  • The orange ribbon cable under the lower-right corner of the screen: Only insert the pick as necessary to separate the adhesive.
  • The adhesive perimeter around the OLED panel: Praying beyond this area without angling the pick may damage the panel.

Step 3 | Heat the right edge of the screen

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Apply a iOpener to the right edge of the display for 1 minute.

  • Alternatively, use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate.
  • Be careful not to overheat the phone; the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 4 | Insert an opening pick

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Use clear packing tape to help suction cup adhere to cracked display.

  • Place suction cup near right edge of screen.
  • Apply strong steady force to lift suction cup.
  • Insert opening pick into screen seam, no more than 1 mm from edge.

As a last resort, use superglue to attach suction cup to broken screen.

Step 5 | Guide the opening pick under the OLED panel

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Insert the pick carefully to avoid damaging the OLED panel.

  • Pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle with about 1 mm inserted into the gap.
  • Carefully push the pick in at a steep angle, approximately 6 mm, until it slides below the OLED panel.
  • Stop if you feel resistance; the pick may be hitting the edge of the OLED panel. Adjust the angle and try again.

Step 6 | Cut the adhesive

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Slide a picking tool along the right edge of the screen to cut the adhesive.

  • Do not insert the tool more than 1/4 inch (6 mm) or you may damage the screen's flex cable.

  • Leave the tool in the top right corner to prevent re-sealing of the adhesive.

Step 7

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Check if screen adhesive is weak, heat may not be required.

  • If screen is hard to slice, apply one-minute heat and try again.

Be cautious of the delicate cable under the bottom-right corner of the screen.

  • Insert another opening pick at an angle into the right edge where a gap has formed.
  • Slide the pick around the bottom to cut adhesive, keeping it angled downward and inserted only 2 mm deep.

If the pick snags on anything, carefully remove it and try again; leave the pick in along the bottom edge to prevent resealing of adhesive.

Step 8

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Insert a new opening pick into the bottom edge at an angle where a gap is already present.

  • Use the pick to cut through the left edge of the phone.
  • If cutting is difficult, heat the left edge for one minute and try again.
  • Leave the pick in place along the left edge to prevent re-adhesion.

Step 9

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Careful not to damage or lose the earpiece speaker mesh

  • Insert another opening pick into the left edge at an angle, where a gap has formed.
  • (Prevent damage to the OLED panel)
  • Slide the pick around the top edge to cut the adhesive.
  • If the screen feels hard to slice, heat the top edge for one minute and try again.

Step 10

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Carefully lift the right edge of the screen, opening the phone like a book.

Do not remove the screen yet.

  • Insert an opening pick and carefully cut through any remaining adhesive.

Step 11 | Flip the screen over

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Avoid putting stress on the ribbon cable as the screen is lifted.

  • Lift the screen from the top edge.
  • Swing the screen over the bottom edge until it can rest glass-side down.

Step 12 | Disconnect the display

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Peel up the black tape covering the screen connector bracket using a pair of tweezers.

  • If in good condition, you can re-use this tape during reassembly.
  • Otherwise, replace with a piece of electrical tape.

Step 13

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Remove the T3 Torx driver and unscrew the two 2.1 mm screws holding the screen connector bracket in place.

  • Keep track of each screw to ensure correct reassembly.
  • Return each screw exactly where it was removed from.

Step 14

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Remove the screen connector bracket using a pair of tweezers.

Keep this component for easy reinstallation during reassembly.

Step 15

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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.

Do not press down in the middle when re-attaching connectors; instead:

  • Carefully align the connector.
  • Press down on one side until it clicks into place.
  • Repeat on the other side. If misaligned, the pins may bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 16 | Remove the screen

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Remove the existing screen.

  • Check if your replacement screen has pre-installed speaker mesh and top edge adhesive.
  • If it does, skip applying top edge adhesive. Otherwise:
    • Remove the larger clear liner from the top edge adhesive.
    • Apply to the screen, not the frame, ensuring cutout lines up with speaker mesh.

    Follow guide for custom-cut adhesive application.

    Refer to third photo for positioning adhesives during installation.

    During boot-up process after reassembly, let screen complete calibration sequence without touching it. Improper touch calibration may cause issues.

Step 17 | Remove the midframe screws

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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.3 mm screws securing the back cover to the midframe.

Step 18 | Spring contact information

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Avoid damaging the spring contacts by not inserting the opening pick more than 2mm.

  • Examine the midframe components behind the back cover in this photo.
  • Take note of the spring contacts near the edge of the midframe.

Step 19 | Separate the back cover from the midframe

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Insert an opening pick into the seam between the midframe and back cover, angled steeply downwards.

  • Be mindful of not inserting the pick more than 2 mm into the seam.
  • Slide the pick along the bottom edge to release plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.

Step 20

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  • Apply an opening pick along the left edge of the phone, working it gently to disengage the plastic clips holding the back cover in place.

Step 21

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Insert an opening pick into the top edge and slide it towards the right, carefully releasing the remaining clips.

Step 22

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Swing the back cover from the bottom of the phone over the top and around the back.

  • Lay the back cover on a work surface.
  • Gently rest the midframe on the back cover, avoiding stress on the attached ribbon cables.

Step 23 | Remove the motherboard bracket

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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the motherboard bracket.

  • Remove three black screws, 2.9mm long.
  • Remove three more screws, 2mm long.
  • Remove one additional screw, 4.1mm long.

Step 24

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Unclip the motherboard bracket using the tip of a spudger, starting at the upper-right corner then moving to the lower-right.

Step 25

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Remove the motherboard bracket using a pair of tweezers.

Step 26 | Disconnect the battery

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Insert the flat end of a spudger into the battery cable.

  • Pry upwards carefully to release the connection.
  • Once disconnected, you can proceed with the repair.

Step 27 | Remove the back cover

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to gently disconnect the two flex cable connections.
  • These connections are between the fingerprint sensor, buttons, and the motherboard.

Step 28

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Remove the back cover.

Step 29 | Remove the headphone jack

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Disconnect the headphone jack cable from the motherboard using the tip of a spudger.

Step 30

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Apply a pick to the headphone jack area and twist until released.

  • Remove the headphone jack.

Step 31 | Remove the front-facing camera

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front-facing camera from the motherboard.

Step 32

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Remove the front-facing camera with a pair of tweezers.

Step 33 | Remove the loudspeaker

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Remove the Loudspeaker Assembly screws using a T3 Torx Driver.

  • The screws are 4.1 mm in length.
  • There are two screws to remove.

Step 34

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Insert the spudger tip under the loudspeaker assembly.

Avoid puncturing the white membrane surrounding the speaker, necessary for reusing it.

  • Flip the loudspeaker assembly over and place it gently on top of the battery.

Step 35

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Use the spudger tip to carefully disconnect the antenna flex cable from the loudspeaker assembly.

Step 36

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Peel the loudspeaker assembly carefully up from its adhesive.

Avoid damaging the white membrane for potential reuse.

  • Once peeled, remove the loudspeaker assembly.

Step 37 | Disconnect the loudspeaker cable

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Disconnect the loudspeaker cable using the tip of a spudger.

Step 38 | Remove the motherboard screws

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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove three screws:

  • Two black screws, 2.9 mm long.
  • One screw, 2.1 mm long.

Step 39 | Remove the earpiece speaker tape

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Peel up the tape covering the earpiece speaker using the corner of a opening pick.

Step 40

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Remove the tape from the earpiece speaker using tweezers.

Do not reinstall this tape during reassembly.

Step 41 | Remove the motherboard

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Position the spudger under the motherboard's lower edge.

Pry the motherboard up gently, but firmly, until you can grasp it securely.

Step 42

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Disconnect all cables and connectors from the motherboard.

  • Locate the motherboard mounting screws and remove them using a Phillips head screwdriver.
  • Lift the motherboard out of its mounting bracket.

Step 43 | Disconnect the charging port

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Disconnect the charging port using the flat edge of a spudger.

  • Remove the charging port.
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