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Samsung Galaxy Z Flip 3 Screen and Frame Assembly Replacement

This guide may not be accurate, and you proceed at your own risk. Thank you to iHub Repair for providing consent to use this device.

  • This repair is for the screen and frame assembly, which combines both parts into one unit.
  • Ensure you have the correct part before starting the repair.
  • Discharge the battery completely to prevent fire risk if damaged during repair. If your battery is swollen, take necessary precautions.
  • Note: Reapplying the back cover adhesive affects water resistance and IP rating post-repair.

Step 1 | Eject Sim

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  • Unplug all cables and power off the phone completely.
  • Use a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip carefully in the SIM card tray hole on the top left edge to avoid damaging it.

  • Press the tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject and remove it.

Step 2 | Heat & Prep

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Ensure that all tools, including the CPB Heating Pad, Heat Gun, or iOpener, are readily available for warming up the back side.

Use 90%+ Isopropyl alcohol as it is nonconductive and will aid in completing most steps efficiently.

  • Apply heat to loosen the adhesive until it has sufficient give.
  • If successful, begin opening with an iFixit Opening Pick(s).
  • Otherwise, refer to the next step for alternative methods of penetrating the adhesive.

Step 3 | Carefully Create Separation

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  • Start with your thinnest tool, such as the Jimmy and iSesamo Opening Tool.
  • Use Isopropyl alcohol to assist throughout the process.

Avoid using a scraping motion with metal tools, as this can damage the paint on the back plate.

  • For initial prying, consider using thin guitar picks (a pack of which is preferred) or an alternative such as the Halberd Spudger.
  • The Triangle Shaped Opening Picks can be used in conjunction with ISO to open the back plate.
  • When using this pick, keep the opening shallow (no more than 1/8") and avoid going too deep, as seen in future steps for frame thickness reference.

Step 4 | Lift Top & Bottom Plastic Back Plates

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Do not rip the ribbon cable while opening the back.

  • Open the top portion like a book, being cautious of the camera.
  • Work carefully to avoid damaging the ribbon cable.

Step 5 | Disconnect Rear Screen Cover & Connection

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Remove the plastic connector cover using a Spudger.

  • Use a Triangle Pick to lightly pop the connector free.
  • The top back plate can now be set aside.

Step 6 | Remove Screws and Metal Cover Plate

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Remove the screws using a screwdriver with a PH000 head.

  • Pull the Connector(s) Cover away from its retaining clips.

Step 7 | Disconnect Power FIRST!

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Power off the device first.

  • Tweezers: Pull up the heat transfer sticker cover.
  • Plug in power last.

Step 8 | Disconnect Connectors On Motherboard

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Pop up the power connector on the far right first.

  • Disconnect the remaining six connectors to its left in sequence, from top to bottom.

Step 9 | Remove Screws and Cover Plate On Bottom

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Locate the phone's lower casing.

  • Remove the two screws at the bottom.
  • Use a spudger to pry off the cover plate.

Step 10 | Disconnect Power Then Remove Wireless Charging Pad

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Disconnect the power connector from the lower battery.

  • There are two batteries, so be sure to target the correct one.
  • Use Isopropyl alcohol on the Triangle Picks to release the wireless charging pad's adhesive.
  • Remove and set aside the wireless charging pad connector.

Step 11 | Remove Screws and Pull Speaker Assembly

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Be careful when handling screws.

  • Remove four silver screws and one black screw.
  • Insert a spudger into the available space to pop up the lower speaker assembly.
  • Lift up the assembly at an angle of at least 45 degrees, then pull it out and set aside.

Step 12 | Disconnect Main Connectors & Lift Sister Board

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Be cautious when lifting the sister board as it may still have one remaining connection.

  • Lift the sister board with care, flipping it to access the last connection.
  • Use your iFixit Pick or Spudger to disconnect this final connection.

Step 13 | Isopropyl/ Heat & Battery Removal

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Place the phone back on the heat mat.

  • If using an iOpener, place it directly on top of the batteries (do not apply heat to the screen side).
  • Apply isopropyl alcohol to both batteries while they are on the heater.

Be cautious when removing the battery: avoid damaging cables and take advantage of the loosened adhesive by prying carefully once the bath has taken effect (after a few minutes).

Step 14 | Fold/Flip The Phone & Remove Battery

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Be cautious when handling internal components.

  • Fold and flip over the phone, taking advantage of the heat from the ISO/Heat bath.
  • Pry out the battery from the top, as it may be slightly easier compared to the lower battery.

Now, focus on removing the screw located at the bottom right corner (as shown in picture three).

Be careful when handling this part, as it is connected to another area.

Step 15 | Disconnect Part & Lift Motherboard

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Insert the spudger's pointed end into a gap on the left side of the component.

Be cautious: adhesive may be present, and a gentle ISO bath may be necessary to facilitate removal.

  • Locate and remove the six silver screws securing the motherboard and plastic cover.

Pull the motherboard upwards while ensuring there's no resistance or sticking points.

Step 16 | Properly Sealed In The End (Final Final Step)

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For final assembly, ensure the adhesive is correctly applied before attaching the external screen connector:

  • T-7000 on all corners.
  • E-8000 on all straight edges.
  • Secure individual clamps with only a 1/4 to 1/2 turn when resistance is felt, and wait for 15-20 minutes.
  • Clean up any excess adhesive around the edges with Isopropyl.
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