You will need replacement adhesive to complete this repair.
Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or straightened paperclip into the SIM tray hole located at the top edge next to the plastic antenna band.
If inserted incorrectly, do not worry as the microphone and ingress gasket are protected from harm.
Remove the SIM card tray.
If the rubber gasket around the SIM tray is damaged or missing, replace it to prevent water and dust damage to your phone's internal components.
Unplug your phone from power source.
Avoid applying excessive force with the pick, which may crack the back cover glass.
As a last resort, superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Reheating the iOpener may be necessary to loosen tight tolerances; this process can take multiple attempts before succeeding.
Slide the pick back and forth along the bottom edge to slice through the adhesive.
Avoid cutting near the corners of the phone where the glass is curved, as this can cause the glass panel to crack.
Apply heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for 2 minutes.
Apply a suction cup near the left edge, as close to center as possible.
Due to tight tolerances, creating a gap may take multiple attempts.
Avoid excessive force with the pick to prevent cracking the back cover glass.
Insert the pick further under the glass's edge and tilt it downwards.
Continue until the back cover's adhesive is fully separated.
Be careful when sliding the pick across the ridge around the volume and power buttons, as this area is more susceptible to cracking.
Excessive heat can cause damage to the display and internal battery.
Apply a suction cup to the phone's back near the center of the right edge.
Slide a pick along the right edge of the phone to separate the back cover's adhesive.
Apply a iOpener to the top edge of the back cover and heat it for two minutes.
The curved glass near the corners is prone to cracking — handle with care.
If slicing becomes difficult, stop and reapply heat before proceeding.
Slowly lift the back cover.
Power on your phone and test all functions before reassembling, then power down completely.
For custom-cut adhesives: follow this guide.
For double-sided tape: follow this guide.
Remove the motherboard bracket by unscrewing the five 4mm screws using a Phillips #00 screwdriver.
Make sure to keep track of each screw and reattach it in its original location.
Use tweezers to carefully lift the motherboard bracket away from the plastic midframe.
Do not fully remove the bracket yet, as it is still connected to the wireless charging coil.
Be careful not to damage the wireless charging coil.
Be cautious when disconnecting the battery connector — risk of damaging nearby components.
Remove the loudspeaker with a Phillips #00 screwdriver.
Insert the tip of a spudger or tweezers into the notch on the top left corner of the midframe.
Use a spudger to disconnect the main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard.
Misaligned connectors can cause permanent damage to the pins.
Remove the main and auxiliary flex cables. Gently peel them up.
Use a spudger to carefully pry up the main display flex cable from the motherboard, then gently disconnect it.
Peel up the display flex cable and bend it aside to clear the motherboard and battery.
Remove the upper midframe using a Phillips #00 screwdriver.
Locate the notch on the right side of the upper midframe.
Use a spudger to gently pry up and release the side button flex cable from the motherboard.
Disconnect the front facing camera flex cable from the motherboard using a plastic spudger.
Disconnect the front-facing sensor array cable from the motherboard.
Bend the disconnected cable out of the way to prevent damage or obstruction.
Insert the flat end of a spudger into the bottom left corner of the motherboard assembly and pry gently.
Risk of damage if not properly disconnected.
Remove all components and parts from the chassis.
The motherboard will be the only remaining component inside the case.
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