iPhone SE 2022 Logic Board Replacement

• Insert a SIM card eject tool, a SIM eject bit, or a straightened paper clip into the hole on the SIM tray located at the right edge of the phone.
• Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.
• Remove the SIM card tray.

• Power off your phone before beginning disassembly.
• Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

• If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
• Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
• You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
• Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

• If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
• Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
• Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
• If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
• If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

• The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
• For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
• Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
• Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
• Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button-one on the front, and one on the back.
• Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
• If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

1. Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
2. Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
3. Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

1. Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp. You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate-but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
2. Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
3. Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
4. Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
5. If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
6. Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

If you're using a suction handle, follow the next two steps to loosen the rear glass.

1. Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the screen for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
2. A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone-the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Secure a suction handle to the lower half of the front panel, as close to the home button as possible.

• Lift the front panel with the suction handle to create a small gap between the front panel and the frame.
• If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to the bottom half of the screen to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
• Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.

Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner to slice the front panel adhesive.

• Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge of your phone.
• Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.
• Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. Use your iOpener for two to three minutes to reheat it.
Slide the bottom left opening pick along the left edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
Stop near the top left corner of the display.
Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

Slide the bottom right opening pick along the right edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
Do not insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
Stop near the top right corner of the display.

• Remove the opening picks.
• Gently pull up on the suction handle to lift up the bottom edge of the display. Do not raise the display more than 15o or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
• Remove the suction handle.

• Slide an opening pick underneath the top left corner of the display.
• Slide the opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive.

• Slide the display assembly slightly down in direction of the charging port to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

1. Open the phone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display from the phone assembly yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

• Remove the four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket:
  
  • Two 1.2 mm-long screws
  • Two 2.8 mm-long screws
  Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

• Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the lower display cable bracket.

• Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

1. The display and digitizer cables run on top of each other. To avoid cable damage always start by disconnecting the upper cable first and never try to disconnect both at the same time.
   Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom two display cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.
   To re-attach press connectors like this, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

• Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm-long screws securing the front sensor assembly bracket.

• Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the front sensor assembly bracket.

• Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front sensor assembly by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

• Remove the display assembly.
• During reassembly, follow this guide to apply adhesive and install your display assembly.

• Unfasten the three screws securing the Lighting connector bracket:
  A one 1.2 mm-long Y000 screw
  A one 2.7 mm-long Phillips screw
  A one 2.9 mm-long Phillips screw

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Lighting connector bracket.

Carefully slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered to the speaker. If you're struggling to separate the cable from the speaker, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.

• Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna by prying its connector straight up from its socket. The socket of this connector sits loosely between the speaker and the Taptic Engine, and it's a bit fiddly to disconnect the cable. To make the disconnection easier, you can use an opening pick to hold down the connector socket during this procedure.
  Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

• One 3.0 mm-long standoff screw
• Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
  In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job-but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.
• One 3.1 mm-long Phillips screw

• One 2.8 mm-long Phillips screw
• One 1.2 mm-long Phillips screw

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the upper flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

• Unfasten the three 1.2 mm-long Phillips screws securing the top left antenna component.
• Don't try to remove the antenna component yet. There's a fourth screw securing it to the rear case.

Unfasten the 1.4 mm-long Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the top left antenna component.

• Unfasten the two screws securing the top left grounding bracket:
  • One 1.5 mm-long Phillips screw
  • One 1.2 mm-long Phillips screw

• Use a pair of tweezers to remove the top left grounding bracket.

• Unfasten the four screws securing the logic board:
  • One 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw
  • One partially threaded 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw (this screw is covered by protective foam surrounding the rear camera connector. Use a pair of tweezers to peel just enough foam off to unfasten the screw)
  • One 2.5 mm-long standoff screw
  • One 2.2 mm-long standoff screw

• Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pry up the logic board grounding bracket in the top right corner of the rear case.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way by pushing it to the right edge of the rear case.

• Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning port cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
• Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the wireless charging coil cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the battery connector end of the logic board.
Be careful not to pry against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it.
Make sure that none of the surrounding cables are tangled with the logic board or blocking its way.